Utahns in 'Hog Heaven' with Heritage Farming Operation - Pure Pork Nirvana

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Utahns in 'hog heaven' with heritage farming operation
Farming » Meet Christian and Hollie Christiansen
who raise Utah's only herd of free-roaming purebred Berkshire pigs.

By Kathy Stephenson
The Salt Lake Tribune
01/06/2010

Many people talk about "hog heaven," but
Christian and Hollie Christiansen actually live there.

Christiansen's Hog Heaven is the name of the young couple's farm in Vernon, about 30 minutes south of Tooele. On this 3-acre plot next to the Sheeprock Mountains, they raise Utah's only herd of purebred Berkshire pigs. It's a non-commercial heritage breed that chefs and food-lovers in Utah and beyond praise as pure pork nirvana.

The couple, avid readers of Hobby Farmsmagazine, used to dream about owning land where they could grow their own food and raise animals in a humane, natural way. When they learned about Berkshires, they knew it was the pig for them. The breed was popular before World War II, and produces pork that's darker, meatier and marbled with fat.

"It has a lot more flavor" than commercial meat, explained Christian, 30, during a recent cooking class at Salt Lake City's Viking Cooking School showcasing his pork. A self-described city kid, Christian grew up in the suburbs of Denver before earning a degree in agricultural science. He said Berkshires are a good fit for the Utah climate, because they are hardy and can stand cold winter nights and hot summer days.

About three years ago, the Christiansens found their affordable "fixer-upper" home in Vernon, where they live with their three children, now ages 5, 4 and 6 months. They've got plenty of land, and the location is close to Dugway Proving Ground, where Christian works as a business manager.

The family initially raised a few pigs for themselves and for family and neighbors, then decided to expand. They raised 10 pigs and put them up for sale on a classified Web site. "They sold in 48 hours," Christian said. "That's when we knew we were onto something."

That was in November 2008. Through word of mouth and their blog, the business has grown at a steady pace. In 2009, they raised and sold about 100 pigs. They expect to double that number in 2010, as consumers look for local, all-natural sources for their food. 

Photo Apples - The Christiansen family's Berkshire pigs feast on apples given to them during a recent Sunday afternoon feeding. (Photo:Scott Sommerdorf / Salt Lake Tribune)

Each month, the family has 10 to 15 pigs available for sale. Thanks to pre-orders, they are sold out through February, but are accepting orders for delivery in March and April.

They also are looking to raise all-natural chickens, turkey and grass-fed beef. "I never thought we'd be pig farmers," explained Hollie, 29, whose family operates an orchard in Lehi with 600-plus apple trees. "I thought it was crazy."

In February [2010], Christiansen's pork will be showing up on the menu at Orem's Pizzeria 712, and Provo's Communal. Chefs and co-owners Colton Soelburg and Joseph McRae plan to make sausage and prosciutto for pizzas and include pork chop as a regular menu item.

"This is an exciting opportunity, to help a local farmer," Soelburg said. "Pricewise, it's less expensive for us [to buy a whole animal] than purchasing mass-produced pork. And flavorwise, it's leaps and bounds above commercial."

Home cooks can purchase a quarter, half or whole pig. Prices range from about $3 to $4 per pound.

Most consumers have only tasted commercially raised pork, which during the past few decades has been produced to be lower in fat and lighter colored, all in an effort to resemble chicken. Hence the slogan "the other white meat."

Christy Porucznik, of Salt Lake City, never liked it. "Then I realized I had really only had bad pork," said Porucznik, a researcher at University of Utah who purchased pork from Hog Heaven in 2009.
"It was a culinary adventure for me."

From the pork chops to the ham, Porucznik said the flavor was purely celestial. "It was the best ham I ever had," she said. "It was moist and not overly salty or overly sweet. It had actual pieces of bone and actual pieces of fat like it came from a real animal."

Christian say it's not just the breed, but how his animals are treated, that makes the pigs' flavor stand out on the dinner table.

Pigs at Hog Heaven are registered with the American Berkshire Association. They roam free, grazing on locally grown grains and alfalfa and enjoying seasonal treats like pumpkins and apples. They are raised without antibiotics or added hormones.

"Our pigs have thousands of feet to roam and have mud holes to wallow in," Christian explained. "Our pigs are happy."

Of course they are, they live in heaven.
 

kathys@sltrib.com

Roast rack of pork with sour mash sauce

• Brine
• 1 quart apple cider
• 1/2 cup kosher salt
• 1/2 cup brown sugar
• 1 yellow onion, peeled and quartered
• 15 black peppercorns
• 15 mustard seeds
• 8 coriander seeds
• 8 sprigs fresh thyme
• 1 large sprig rosemary
• 3 parsley sprigs
• 4 bay leaves
• 1 (8-bone) rack of pork, Frenched and fat removed
• 2 tablespoons Canola oil

Sauce

• 2 cups Bourbon whiskey
• 5 cups salt-free chicken stock
• 2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus parsley sprigs for garnish
• Salt
• Freshly ground black pepper

Bring apple cider, salt, brown sugar, onion, peppercorns, mustard seeds, coriander seeds and herbs to a simmer in a large stock pot. Cook until sugar is dissolved. Add 2 cups ice cubes and cool completely. Submerge roast in brine. Cover and refrigerate at least 12 hours or up to 24 hours.

Heat oven to 400 degrees. Remove pork from brine and pat dry with paper towels. Wrap bones with heavy aluminum foil to prevent burning. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over high heat. Cook on both sides until golden brown, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer to a baking pan and place in the oven. Roast 40 to 50 minutes or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat reaches 145 degrees. Remove from oven. Cover loosely with foil. Rest 10 to 15 minutes before carving.

While pork is roasting,
add whiskey to the sauté pan that the pork was cooked in. Use a wooden spoon to scrape up browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Cook, stirring, until reduced to 1/4 cup. Add chicken stock, bring to a boil and cook until reduced to a sauce consistency. Remove pan from heat. Whisk in butter. Taste and add salt and paper if necessary. Place cut pork chop on plate. Drizzle with sauce. Garnish with parsley.

Servings » 8

Source » Jim Light, Viking Cooking School, Salt Lake City

Christiansen's Hog Heaven

Who » Christian and Hollie Christiansen raise Utah's only herd of purebred Berkshire pigs on their 3-acre farm in Vernon, about 30 miles south of Tooele.

What » Berkshire is a heritage breed whose meat is darker, meatier and marbled with more fat than commercial pork.

Cost » A quarter pig (about 35 pounds) is $150; half pig (70-100 pounds) ranges from $225 to $325 or $3.25 per pound; whole pig (140-200 pounds) costs between $420 and $600 or $3 per pound.

Where to Buy »
Call (435) 839-3482 or Email.

Online »
ChristiansensHogHeaven.blogspot.com  –  ChristiansenFarm.com.

See Also - SFU Resource article "Christiansen's Hog Heaven."